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Roger
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« on: August 03, 2007, 11:53:27 PM »

I was wondering what the best way to shoot cockpits is.  I'm talking airliner/cargo plane cockpits.  Do you use a diffuser on your flash?  What kind of settings should you use?

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers,
Roger
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« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2007, 05:28:17 PM »

I haven't shot many cockpits because they don't really interest me.  However, I do know to set exposure compensation to -1 or so with black instrument panels to keep them black.  You also may want to use -1/2 or -1 flash compensation so the light picks out highlights instead of bathing everything.  Most of what's not black on a traditional panel is white or highly reflective, so a little flash goes a long way.

If you're shooting more than just the panel, bear in mind that objects closer to the flash will get more light than objects further away.  Try to compose the shot so nothing in the near foreground gives hot spots and stuff in the background is either naturally dark or very light (making underexposure less evident).

Always check that nothing's obstructing the flash and creating unwanted shadows.  Often to get the view you want you'll have the camera next to a panel or lining, where things like cords and knobs may get in the way.

Hope this tides you over until somebody who knows what he's talking about can leap in....

-M.M.
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Mark Munzel

Why are the sharpest photos always the ones where the nose is cut off?
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« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2007, 05:30:59 PM »

I haven't shot an airliner cockpit since the 80's - and my brain doesn't go back that far sorry - also the equipment was very different then.

For stuff on the ground these days (closest to airliner would be a PBY4 I guess) I tend to shoot with or without flash and meter on the instruments ignoring the outside light in the windows.

Then create two images from the RAW image - one with correct cockpit exposure and the other recovering the highlights through the window - overlay the 2 images, create a layer mask and Bob's your auntie.

Now if you're shooting at night that's a lot easier.
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« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2007, 05:55:31 PM »

What I do is meter on the view outside of the windows, and lock it in.  Then use the flash at a -1 or -2 value.  It varies.  It's just me, but I like to to have a good representation of what's going on outside the windows too.



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« Reply #4 on: August 07, 2007, 05:56:59 PM »

Just re-reading your post, seems you're doing airliners and such.. Might not work as well in that situation, as there is much more ambient lighting in a Cessna cockpit (with windows all around).
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« Reply #5 on: August 07, 2007, 06:47:25 PM »

What I do is meter on the view outside of the windows, and lock it in.  Then use the flash at a -1 or -2 value.  It varies.  It's just me, but I like to to have a good representation of what's going on outside the windows too.

That's my method as well and it does work for larger cockpits. I usually try to bounce the flash off the ceiling to avoid reflections from the instruments. I have a Stofen Omnibounce fitted to diffuse the flash.

I meter for the outside reading and switch to manual using the recommended exposure, then just fire off a few shots with the flash compensation set to -1 or -2 and vary the flash compensation settings until I like what I'm getting. I don't want to flash too powerful as I'm usually too close and direct flash would just burn out the pilots leaving the dash under exposed. So bounce flash is almost essential. Here's a couple from a VC-10 and a KC-135 using that method.


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10Boomer
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« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2007, 07:34:33 PM »

I use a similar method as well. For the shot here I used the high speed sync mode to keep the shutter speed as fast as possible and aperture priority to maintain depth of field and a Gary Fong Lightsphere flash diffuser. The exposure was 1/200 @f10 and varied to flash output to fine tune exposure.

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« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2007, 07:44:58 PM »

10Boomer: ... and the pilot doesn't mind a flash going off behind his ear with the boom a few feet from the plane?  Shocked

Great shot, BTW!  Afro
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« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2007, 08:19:42 PM »

If the fill flash is diffused and balanced with the glare from outside, I'd think the pilot might not even notice -- especially with the camera behind him as in this case.   Smiley

I love the body English of the two guys on the right in 10Boomer's photo.  You can read their thoughts -- "Please don't punch a hole in the roof!" -- while the pilots sit there cool as ... well, cool as pilots!   Cool

-M.M.
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Mark Munzel

Why are the sharpest photos always the ones where the nose is cut off?
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« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2007, 09:07:28 PM »

Boomer, Kev and bcradio those are great shots!

 Afro Afro
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Roger
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« Reply #10 on: August 07, 2007, 09:25:45 PM »

Thank you for this invaluable info. Afro  I hope to put it in practice next week.

Roger
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« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2007, 07:29:39 PM »

 Roger,
 Use a flash cord and photograph with the flash off camera. This way you can experiment with how the light reacts to the cockpit. On sunny days I love using a polarizer. Keep an eye on the depth of field. I always position the flash under the camera body. If I don't have my cord with me I will take shots holding the camera body with flash upside down. I usually need 4/5 snaps to lock in a good exposure between the outside lighting and cockpit.

WildBil

     


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« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2007, 07:41:13 PM »

a lot of useful info here - excellent stuff
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Paul Filmer, Denver, CO
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« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2007, 07:56:51 AM »

No flash, just a very slow shutterspeed (something like 1/15th and 800 ASA - will check EXIF-data tonight). I liked the atmosphere and didn't want to ruin it with a flash (this was early morning returning from Oceana last year). I did edit the outside separately from the interior though.

While you're up there, take as many shots as you can, experimenting all the way! Have fun!

Mickey

PS: Kev, 10Boomer, bcradio: Wow Afro.


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« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2007, 12:10:13 AM »

Just like what others have said before, meter for the outside, punch it in manual mode, and shoot with the flash on.  Shooting raw will help you control the exposure if you are a bit off.   Another thing is to watch your focus point.  I usually try and keep it around F/8, but do keep a focus point on the instrument panel.  But just take a lot of pics and you'll be fine.  One of my challenges is to keep the lcd panels from going all black. 

Here are a few shots....

1. An R22 on final to San Carlos
2. EC120 on final to Moffett Field
3. C-17 West Coast Demo team on final to Santa Rosa.  1/200 @ f/11. Manual mode.


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